Hyperpigmentation

A 6-Step Effortless Skin Care Routine For Hyperpigmentation – With Organics!

Leave a Comment / Organic Skin Care For Hyperpigmentation / By Clelia Gakshteyn

According to research, hyperpigmentation is among the most common skin conditions varying among up to 33 percent of the population.

Hyperpigmentation is a harmless skin condition that badly affects how our skin looks! However, you can get rid of it with a simple skin care routine for hyperpigmentation – which is research-proven!

Shopping for beauty products without proper knowledge will end you with no treatment and even make you lose your money! Every product will make you think this is what you need, leading to a double-minded situation! Hold on, that article will not only answer your “whys?”; but also satisfy your “hows?” and proper routine to follow backed with scientific reasons!

What Causes Hyperpigmentation?

Melanin pigment is responsible for skin coloration. Increased melanin production of irritated skin cells can lead to dark, patchy skin, known as hyperpigmentation. This include skin condition such as:

Melasma- butterfly-shaped dark patches
Age spots -oval-shaped dark spots
Acne scars
Freckles- flat, circular spots, tanned light brown

It is often triggered by:

Hormonal imbalance
Sun exposure
Age
Inflammation or environmental stress

Before we look into skin care routine for hyperpigmentation, let us first discuss some active ingredients for pigmented skin.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a tyrosinase inhibitor. And tyrosinase is an enzyme that forms melanin. Melanin is what gives our skin its color, which causes skin pigmentation.

Hydroquinone is a great bleaching agent which decreases the number of melanocytes present. That lightens the skin tone.

Although hydroquinone is safe to use according to many pieces of research, it can irritate your skin rarely if used prolonged daily!

Tip! Do not rely on hydroquinone-based products for more than five months at once.

A downside of hydroquinone is that it can sometimes cause rebound hyperpigmentation. That is, your pigmentation might return once you stop using it! Therefore, many dermatologists are not a big fan of hydroquinone unless you use it for specific skin concerns under supervision.

Luckily, we have natural alternatives to hydroquinone that works well too. But they are without the adverse effects of hydroquinone.

You can even consider vitamin A, vitamin C, and niacinamide instead!

Alpha Arbutin

Alpha arbutin is a depigmenting agent derivative of hydroquinone. It also inhibits melanin formation. However, during product use, hydroquinone may be generated.

Retinoids

It is a class of chemical compounds famous for treating fine lines and wrinkles as they boost collagen production. Besides this, it can treat hyperpigmentation. It limits melanin production by inhibiting the enzyme “tyrosinase”!

Vitamin C

A powerful antioxidant that also heals hyperpigmentation by targeting melanin production! Moreover, it also prevents pigmentation in the future by minimizing UV exposure and environmental stress by neutralizing free radicles.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is also a great lightning agent. Study proves that it can inhibit melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes beneath the skin.

Studies suggest that niacinamide can reduce pigmentation within four weeks of its use! Seems promising, right?

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is a natural substance that comes from fungi. It inhibits tyrosinase (reduces melanin). Moreover, koji acid:

soothes inflammation
fights against oxidants
antimicrobial
UV protector
lightens pigmentation

Soy Complex

You might have used soy complex previously to reduce signs of aging, as it plumps up your skin and improves skin texture. Alongside this, it even fights hyperpigmentation. Study proves it is an able ingredient to treat uneven skin tone!

It works by inhibiting melanin production by decreasing the number of melanocytes by phagocytosis.

Dermatologists are confident that it is even safe for people with sensitive skin. It reduces redness, protects from UV rays, and even eliminates dark spots giving a radiant and bright look!

Until now, you know some key ingredients you should consider to cure your hyperpigmentation. Now, let’s discuss a complete routine you can follow!

WHY DOES ORDER MATTER?

Have you heard, “A little knowledge is a dangerous knowledge”? That is the best way to explain this case!

Applying products without considering the factor “what goes first” can result in no result, and in worst scenarios, can even cause skin damage by the reaction.

Correct order of skin care will not only give the best possible results but will even offer better penetration in your skin!

General tip! Try applying products from thinnest (water-based) to thickest (oil-based).

Get yourself ready skin free from hyperpigmentation is just around the corner!

Layering For Hyperpigmentation

Do you want to use more than one ingredient for hyperpigmentation? And are you stuck with the order of layering them up? We have got you covered!

So, if you want to start with the order of layering, first understand that there are mainly five categories of bases:

Water
Anhydrous
Suspensions
Oils
Emulsions

So, each of them layers differently! To know which product to layer, first, you should know which base it is (as they layer differently).

To layer these bases correctly, you should start with water-based products. Next, use anhydrous or oil formulations, followed by emulsions. And in the end, use suspensions.

STEP 1: CLEANSING

This step is like a foundation for every skincare routine! Cleansing your skin will remove dirt and grim, remove excess sebum, and kill microbes. That will lead to better penetration of the product you are applying in the further steps.

Oil-Based Cleanser Or Water-Based Cleanser?

Well, it depends on you! Use an oil-based cleanser to remove makeup and emulsify dirt. They usually work well to remove sebum, makeover, skin care actives, or sunscreens. Water-based gives you a deeper clean (removes sweat and dirt from your face). The thing that matters is how to use them effectively!

If your skin is normal to dry, the cleansers you can use include

squalene
coconut milk
ceramides

If your skin is oily, look for

salicylic acid
niacinamide

Look for a complete guide on organic face washes and cleansers here!

For oil-based cleansers, dispense 1-2 pumps on a dry face and massage gently all over your face. Wash with warm water.

Tip! Avoid applying on a wet face due to the opposite polarities of water and oil.

For water-based cleansers, apply a generous amount of cleanser on a wet face and massage to form enough foam. Rinse it off thoroughly.

We offer a great variety of both types of cleanser, with organic options to add to your skincare routine!

After you have clean skin, let’s start by applying the first layer of serum!

STEP 2:EXFOLIATION

WHY EXFOLIATE?

The sole purpose of exfoliation is to remove dead cells from your skin and to bring in new cells on the topmost surface. It also deep cleanses your clogged pores and removes dirt, cleanser might have missed!

Eminence Bright Skin Licorice Root Exfoliating Peel

This exfoliator is eminent for hyperpigmented skin. It comes with cotton pads and a great formula comprised of mandelic acid and glycolic acid. The best part is it contains a natural alternative to hydroquinone. Hydroquinone can cause redness and rebound hyperpigmentation when a person stops its use.

Key benefits include:

Evens out uneven skin
Brightens the skin tone
Diminishes dark spots
Give a radial glow

Apply a thin layer on your face with the brush, and press gently with a cotton pad. This step is not mandatory to perform daily. Twice to thrice time a week will be enough to get the job done.

STEP 3: SERUM

Specifically for hyperpigmentation, you should consider serum with vitamin C or niacinamide. Fortunately, organic skincare offers some great products which you can surely give a shot!

Guinot NEW WHITE Vitamin C Brightening Serum

Guinot’s NEW WHITE Vitamin C Brightening Serum contains all that you need!

It has a good dose of vitamin C, which will neutralize free radicles and decrease melanin production. It wipes out dark spots and makes your complexion fairer.

This power duo of melanoxyl and pure vitamin C will give you a radiant look and is suitable for all skin types.

Biodroga MD Skin Booster Anti-Pigment Spot Serum

Biodroga MD Skin Booster Anti-Pigment Spot Serum includes ingredients such as:

Niacinamide
Alpha-arbutin
Glycolic Acid

They will give a lightening effect to your pigmented skin and gradually fade away dark spots, and even resist hyperpigmentation in the future.

Daily dab an optimum amount of serum all over your face, and soon you will see a noticeable change.

STEP 4: FACE MASK

Adding face masks to your skin care routine will give your skin a therapeutic and relaxing touch! Just relax in the meantime and let the goodness penetrate your skin.

Eminence Bright Skin Masque

For hyperpigmentation, this mask will surely stand out!

Applying it 2-3 times a week will be enough to glow your skin and evens out hyperpigmented areas. It contains natural alternatives to hydroquinone making it suitable for all skin types.

Apply on the dry face and leave it for at least 10-15 min before washing it off. You can leave it overnight too!

Tip! Instead of rubbing the mask while removing, place a washcloth soaked in warm water on your face. That will loosen it up, making it easy and gentle for you to remove!

The upcoming steps are more of a precaution than a treatment! That means these steps will not only cure your hyperpigmentation but also save you from it in the future.

STEP 5: MOISTURIZE

As mentioned previously, one of the leading causes of hyperpigmentation is inflammation. Rubbing dry skin can cause scrapes, bruises, and even cuts at their worst. Upon healing, they leave a dark spot, a sign of hyperpigmentation. To avoid this, moisturize your skin to hydrate and keep it supple.

Keeping hyperpigmentation in our point of vision, “Eminence Bright Skin Moisturizer SPF 40″ definitely deserves your try!

Eminence Bright Skin Moisturizer SPF 40

This chemicals-free product moisturizes your skin well and keeps it glowing and radiant. It also contains hydroquinone alternatives which will help to reduce dark spots. Apart from just hydrating, it also fortifies one from UVA and UVB rays. Moreover, it vanishes age spots and can treat premature aging and hyperpigmentation altogether.

STEP 6: SUNSCREEN

Although, we have a comprehensive post dedicated to sunscreens that cover all you need to know about them. For instance, when skin free from hyperpigmentation is your goal, sunscreens resist them getting worse.

If you have melasma, age spots, and dark spots, sunscreen protects you from sunrays when you are out. Study proves that exposure to UV rays intensify melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Here are our top-pick sunscreens for you!

GM Collin High Protection Veil SPF 50

This high-protection veil is

100% mineral sunscreen (Titanium dioxide)
Broad spectrum (protects against both UVA and UVB)
SPF 50

Nelly De Vuyst SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen

This mineral sunscreen is another broad-spectrum formula that protects you from UVA and UVB. Additionally, this sunscreen is for you if your skin is sensitive, as it reduces the chance of skin burns – thanks to its aloe extracts!

The Bottom Line

So, here is a simple step by step guide to skin care routine for hyperpigmentation, in a nutshell:

Cleanse (twice daily)
Exfoliate (two to three times per week)
Serum (use skin care actives at night- use natural alternates to hydroquinone, alpha arbutin, vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, kojic acid)
Face masks (weekly)
Sunscreen (morning skin care)
Seal it with a moisturizer (for both morning and night skin care routine)

That concludes our guide to treating hyperpigmentation. You can fade pigmentation marks with a few changes to your skin care routine. Use skin care actives that lighten them up! Also, it is preferable to use skin care actives at night. And do not forget to double cleanse in the morning.

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Elegant skincare products for hyperpigmentation on a marble countertop with fresh ingredients.

Skin Lightening Agents for Hyperpigmentation Skin

Leave a Comment / Organic Skin Care For Hyperpigmentation / By Clelia Gakshteyn

As an esthetician, hyperpigmentation will be the most common and troublesome skin condition you’ll treat. Without corrective skin care treatment and lightening agents, hyperpigmentation can be difficult to treat. It may take months or even years for the condition to improve. To effectively treat hyperpigmentation of skin of color, it is important to include lightening products or agents into your treatment plan. These lightening agents can be found in professional and prescription skin care products. These agents are applied to the skin once or twice daily to lighten it over time. Lightening agents and treatments for skin of color can be used individually or as part of a combination therapy method to get rapid results.

How Do Lightening Agents Work?

Lightening agents can slow down melanin production either in one way or in many different ways. Melanin synthesis refers to the conversion of tyrosine from DOPA and dopaquinone using an enzyme called Tyrosinase. Below are some details about the actions of lightening agents.

Mimic tyrosine. Lightening ingredients act as a mimic of tyrosine, essentially keeping tyrosinase too busy to produce as much melanin as before. This is the case for hydroquinone, mequinol, azelaic acid, arbutin and licorice extract.

Prevent tyrosinase. Lightening ingredients can also block off the important copper ions in tyrosinase, preventing the enzyme from working, as is the case of kojic acid. N-acetylglucosamine slows down the production of tyrosinase enzyme, meanwhile vitamin C (ascorbic acid) undoes the reaction of tyrosinase.

Slow melanonosomes. In the case of arbutin and its derivatives, the maturation of melanosomes (pigment producing organelles) is slowed.

Preventing transport. Ingredients like soy, niacinamide and retinoids prevent melanin pigment from traveling from the melanocytes where it’s made to the keratinocyte skin cells.

Dispersing pigment. Licorice root extract helps to disperse pigment.

Cell turnover. Alpha and beta hydroxy acids, chemical peels and retinoids increase skin turnover, meaning there are more skin cells being produced, and less pigment to go around.

Hydroquinone

This lightening agent, which is most often used to treat hyperpigmentation among clients of color, is the most well-known and studied. It is not available in all countries. However, it can be purchased in both prescription and non-prescription strengths. Hydroquinone, the only approved product by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, has been extensively tested and proven effective. It reduces the activity of tyrosinase which is an enzyme that produces new melanin. This makes it more effective than other lightening agents.

Hydroquinone mimics tyrosine and keeps tyrosinase busy enough to make as much melanin. OTC and 2% hydroquinone concentrations are safe for all skin types. Although higher levels can still be effective, they are more likely to cause adverse reactions in people with darker skin. Most prescription-strength hydroquinone formulations contain 3-4%, but concentrations as high as 10% may be available through compounding pharmacies. It is commonly combined with other actives, such as tretinoin or retinol, vitamin A, vitamin C, or glycolic acid, when prescribed by a doctor.

Side effects may include itching, dry skin, itching, allergic reactions, mild contact dermatitis, and skin dryness. It can cause hypopigmentation in severe cases and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Hydroquinone can now be purchased only through prescriptions. This makes it difficult for estheticians not to use it in their treatments without consulting a doctor. There are other options.

Mequinol

This is a prescription alternative to hydroquinone. It’s also known as methoxyphenol, hydroquinone monomethyl ether and p-hydroxyanisole. It is similar to hydroquinone in that it mimics tyrosine and decreases tyrosinase’s ability to make melanin pigment. Mequinol usually comes at a concentration of 2%, sometimes in combination with 0.01% tretinoin and vitamin C to enhance penetration. It has been found to be as effective as hydroquinone and less irritating, but can sometimes temporarily cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Arbutin

Arbutin has been called a “naturally hydroquinone”, as its structure is very similar to hydroquinone. It can be found in bearberry leaf extracts, as well as in blueberry and cranberry leaf extracts. Arbutin gradually becomes hydroquinone. This acts as a tyrosine imitator to slow down melanin production. It can also affect the maturation and production of melanin-producing organelles, called melanosomes. It slowly converts to hydroquinone by skin enzymes, resulting in a slow-release effect. It is combined with retinoid, alphahydroxy acid, and antioxidants to be the most effective hydroquinone-free dark-spot remover. Arbutin is most commonly used at 5% strength. However, there are higher concentrations.

Retinoids

Retinoids are some of the most popular and effective treatments for reducing sun damage and dark spots. Derivatives of vitamin A, examples include tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and isotretinoin, as well as retinol, available OTC. Clinical studies have shown that retinoids (including retinoic acid, retinol and retinyl palmitate) help reduce uneven pigmentation while strengthening elastin fibers and supporting structural collagen. This helps prevent breakouts and signs of aging, while acting as a penetration enhancer for other treatments. Retinoids can work in multiple ways to reduce pigmentation, including increasing skin turnover, interfering with transfer of melanin to the skin, reducing the amount of tyrosinase produced in the skin and dispersing melanin.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a prescription-only acne treatment in many countries. It is slightly milder than hydroquinone, but in combination with retinoids has been as effective as 4% hydroquinone, with less side effects. It interferes with tyrosinase activity as a tyrosine mimic and suppresses and kills abnormal melanocytes. It can be used in 15-20%, sometimes combined with glycolic acid. Azelaic acid is known for the lack of side effects with its use – the main side effects are mild stinging and redness.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is produced by bacteria in the fermentation of rice in the manufacture of sake (Japanese wine). A derivative of kojic acid, kojyl-APPA has also been investigated for its whitening effect and improved skin penetration. Kojic acid binds to copper in tyrosinase, preventing it from performing its role in the production of melanin. It is usually found at 1-4% concentrations, often in combination with hydroquinone, retinoids and glycolic acid.

Licorice Extract

Licorice root has long been used for its natural “skin lightening” effects. It contains high amounts of compounds, including glycyrrhizin, glabridin and liquiritin that also helps block tyrosinase enzymes, which contribute to skin hyperpigment changes. It can also help reduce collagen loss and improve the skin’s ability to absorb other ingredients.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is an ingredient in many skin care products, due to its potent antioxidant activity. However, it is very unstable and is usually combined with other ingredients. Ascorbic acid turns dopaquinone back into L-DOPA, undoing the reaction that tyrosinase does. Ascorbic acid is typically found in 5-10% concentrations, and has an excellent safety profile with much less irritating potential than many other lightening agents.

Soy Proteins

Soy proteins are extracted from soybeans. The most studied lightening agent in soy is soybean trypsin inhibitor. Soybean trypsin inhibitor interferes with the transfer of pigment from the melanin-producing cells to the skin. It is not as effective as hydroquinone, but the lightening action of soy is reversible, and the side effects are minimal.

N-acetylglucosamine

N-acetylglucosamine is a sugar found throughout nature and in the body, and it is a precursor of hyaluronic acid. It slows down the production of tyrosinase enzymes, essential in the synthesis of melanin. Concentrations of 2% N-acetylglucosamine have been found to improve pigmentation in clinical studies and are frequently used in conjunction with niacinamide. There has been mild to moderate skin irritation in some cases.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is found in many plants. It is an antioxidant and is very stable. Niacinamide inhibits transfer of pigment to the skin. The typical concentration of 2-5% has been found to be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation in several studies. However, niacinamide is usually combined with other agents. Some skin irritation can occur.

Conclusion

Consider side effects when choosing the right type of lightening agent to use for your clients. Combining the two, or perhaps only using prescription-based lightening agents for a short time, can produce faster results without irritation or complications. When performing facial modalities or implementing treatment protocols, make sure you recommend a home care program with clear instructions on how to use lightening agent on a daily basis for clients of color.

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